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Určitě nebude složité najít klasické průvodcovské knihy Palerma, takže v tomto případě netrváme na tomto popisu. Ale zeptali jsme se lidí, kteří mají rádi/znají/a žijí v Palermu, aby nám navrhli svůj vlastní žebříček 5-ti míst, které byste určitě neměli vynechat. Top Five v Palermu podle Alli Traina Inkviziční vězení V paláci Steri na náměstí Piazza Marina. Tisíce spisů, kreseb, poezií pokrývají zdi této věznice, přilehlá budova (věznice pokání) vypráví o nejzáhadnějším a fascinovaném příběhu města, když ještě v minulosti existovala Svatá inkvizice (od r. 1600 do r. 1782). Piazza Beati Paoli Hned za kostelem Santa Maruzza dei Canceddi je umístěn hlavní vchod do podzemí Beati Paoli. Není označen žádnou značkou nebo ukazovatelem, ale jestliže projdete úzkou uličkou Vicolo degli Orfani si můžete okamžitě všimnout malého zděného otvoru. Odtud začínala podzemní cesta, která vedla až k Monreale. Cripta delle Repentite Nachází se v ulici Via Divisi, 82. Jediná stopa, která zůstala z konventa delle Repentite, kde byly ubytovány prostitutky, kde jejich pokáním byl nezřízený život a rozhodly se žít klášterním životem. Jen před několika lety byla náhodou objevena jejich krypta. Galerie umění La Guilla Nachází se v ulici Via Sant Agata alla Guilla. Majitelem je Claudio Pezzillo, palermitán s velkou láskou k umění. Tento prostor byl v minulosti užíván jako stodola, nyní slouží jako výstavní hala pro jeho přátelé a jejich umělecká díla. Víc než cokoli jiného se však vyplatí navštívit toto místo, kde Claudio vám povypráví mnoho zábavných a zajímavých historek. Divadélko Ditirammu V ulici Via Torremuzza, 6 v budově palazzo Petrulla. Malé divadlo jen s 52 místy k sezení. Jeden z artistických folklorních klenotů odehrávající se v jedné kouzelné čtvrti Palerma: La Kalsa Top (shopping) Five + 2 di Anna Maria Caronia Sobotní oběd v restauraci Ferro di Cavallo Tato typická restaurace se nachází v ulici Via Venezia (vedle divadla Biondo)- doporučuji karbanátky ze sardinek (le polpettine di sarde) Zmrzlina u Ilarda Výbornou zmrzlinu najdete v ulici Via Foro Umberto I (da Ilardo), kde si ji můžete vychutnat s výhledem na moře. Bazar Tento obchůdek použitých věcí a hlavně veškerých předmětů najdete v ulici Via Ugdulena 22, zde naleznete opravdu všechno! Domácí chléb Ochutnejte také typický chléb v ulici Via Ugdulena,1. Outlet oděvů a doplňků Obchod s příležitostními cenami těchto značek: Marras, Watanabe, Comme des Garçons, Marni, Marc Jacobs, Prada, Lanvin atd najdete v ul. Via G. Daita, 9 (v blízkosti divadla Politeama). Výbornou kávu s crossianty můžete ochutnat v ul. Via Liberta, 10. V létě samozřejmě doporučuji studenou kávu!!!
Top five v Palermu - Andrea Garcia Dante Serpotta Giacomo Serpotta, nejslavnější jeho umělecké dílo můžete shlednout v Oratorio del Rosario v Santa Cita pocházející z r. 1686. Náměstí Piazza Marina e kostel della Catena Tato čtvrť je opravdu úchvatná svým umístěním, nenechte se ujít tuto podívanou.
Pochutnáte si na nich v restauraci, která se nachází v přímořském místečku Mondello a nazývá se Da Calogero. V pátek večer na Candelai Nenechte se ujít návštěvu diskotékového klubu Candelai, který se nachází v prostoru bývalého nevěstince, pokud se ovšem dokažete prodrat tancujícím davem v ulici. Typická páteční noc v Palermu. Addaura Z tohoto místa můžete vidět nádherné pobřeží s útesy, které sestupují do moře.
The Climate
Films and novels often represent Sicily as a very hot, arid land. A piece of Africa in the Mediterranean. This image is only partly true for some areas during the summer months. In reality things are a little more complex. Experts define our climate “Mediterranean sub tropical with partial summer aridity”. For the profane that means Sicily boasts one of the nicest climatic conditions in Europe. Winters are short and temperatures are relatively warm for the most part of the year. You can go to the sea from May until November. Very often however, it happens to take a last swim of the season on December… Should I bring an umbrella? Yes, it could come in handy for some days between November and March.. If you are looking for intense cold and snow, you will have to search hard. However, in January and February there is snow in some areas inland, on Etna and on the Nebrodi and Madonie Mountains. Here the temperatures drops below zero and in some places you can even practice winter sports such as skiing. On the rest of the island however, we can confirm that extreme cold does not exist but don’t be surprised if you encounter people on the street wearing typically alpine clothing when the temperature is around 15°! How to get there
Getting to Palermo has always been rather complicated and costly. However in recent years the situation has brightened thanks to the various low-cost airlines which are dedicating themselves on the island. Today you can travel to and from Sicily by different means, choosing from the following options.
By plane Useful information Falcone-Borsellino International Airport – Punta Raisi (Palermo) http://www.aeroporto.palermo.it info - Società Gesap: tel 800.541880, 091.7020409 Fax 091.7020394 http://www.gesap.it Filippo Eredia
International Airport – Fontanarossa (Catania)
http://www.aeroporto.catania.it Vincenzo Florio Airport – Birgi (Trapani)
Lampedusa Military Airport (open to public flights in the summer)
> back During a train trip one gets to look around which is obviously the best way to get to know a country. Getting to Sicily by train (and by ferry from Reggio Calabria to Messina) can be an interesting experience as long as the extreme slowness of the Italian railway connections does not bother you: for example, the trip from Milan to Palermo takes between 17 and 21 hours and from Rome 10 to 12 hours, excluding delays. For timetable information, destinations and prices consult: http://www.trenitalia.it
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If you are car lovers you can comfortably reach Palermo’s port by some of the ships mentioned above. Otherwise you will have to cross the length of Italy as far as Reggio Calabria (do not forget- Reggio Calabria does not have a motorway, it is a nightmare) where you must take a half-hour ferry trip (which can triple in time depending on traffic). And then? Now you are in Sicily! At this point, be careful of the traffic. The behaviour of Sicilian drivers is not exactly like that of the Scandinavians…
The road situation is quite variable.
There are both efficient connections as well as road axes in terrible condition.
Besides various state, provincial and communal roads, the Island has four main
motorway connections.
A18 Messina-Catania
Approximately 90km long, this is the
busiest motorway on the Island connecting the tourist and industrial zones of
Catania with the agriculturally advanced zones of Ragusa and Siricusa. There is
motorway fee.
A19 Palermo-Catania
Approximately 200km long, this section
of motorway connects two of Sicily’s main cities. There is less traffic than the
A18, making it somewhat faster and safer, if not for its habitual road works
along the way. There is no sea view, but to make up for it in spring, autumn and
winter you pass by very green fields and hills.
A20 Palermo-Messina
Covering a distance of approximately
215km, this stretch of road has many tunnels and is travelled by many heavy
vehicles. It has taken a long time to complete the road and there are still lots
of road works along the way. There is however a breathtaking view of the
Tyrrhenian sea. There are motorway fees and the general road condition is not
good.
A29 Palermo-Trapani-Mazara del Vallo
This is a fast motorway covering 115km
from Palermo to Trapani it takes just an hour. At a distance of 30km is the
Falcone-Borsellino International Airport.
A modern and well-equipped means of transport. The coaches do however have the same defect of slowness as the trains mentioned above. The trip from Milan to Catania takes about 21 hours. Sais Trasporti - Daily connections from various towns in Sicily to Rome.Information: tel. 095/536 201 - Website only in Italian http://www.saistrasporti.it Autolinee Segesta - National connections from Sicily to Puglia, Rome, Milan, Bologne, Urbino and Mestre and international connections to Belgium, France, Switzerland and Germany. Information: tel. 091304106. Website only in Italian http://www.segesta.it
Cultures
The Sicilian and his Culture...?
On Sicily and its inhabitants you will find a very rich production of literature, essay writing and cinematography, often however, superficial and neglectful of finer details. And at times Sicilians themselves are convinced of being (for better or for worse) the only people in the world – which only contributes in increasing stereotypes about ‘Sicilian-ness’. There are many descriptions of Sicilian culture that flatten in one single image centuries of civilisations that are very different one from the other, a variegated geography and millions of inhabitants. Those things which remain imprinted in the mind are human warmth and hospitality, jealousy and sweets made with ricotta, passionate crimes and the Mafia, the sea and the blinding sun, the ruins and misfortunes. We prefer to think of a ‘plural’ Sicily, richly layered with both traditional and innovative elements and with movements and contradictions. A Sicily not easily reduced to one dimension. This section is dedicated to detailed information and experiences had on the Island and its multiform cultural expressions.
This is where your voyage begins from
cinema to literature, music and social movements, gastronomy and art…
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Society
Jolts and movements periodically shake Sicilian society during its attempt to free itself from the Mafia’s hold, a criminal organization that has conditioned for years both the Island’s development and its attempts towards change by its inhabitants. The Mafia is a complex and multiform phenomenon. To begin to understand more about it we propose Umberto Santino’s thorough examination as founder of the Sicilian Documentation Centre Giuseppe Impastato, the first Mafia study centre of its kind in Italy… link: > http://www.centroimpastato.it Critical consumption against the Mafia
Territorial Mafia control undertakes
various forms. One of these is ‘il pizzo’, a kind of ‘tax’ that the Mafia
imposes on commercial traders and businessmen in exchange for ‘protection’ (from
itself).
The Mafia’s message is simple: “If you
pay you’re safe. If you don’t pay, something serious could happen to you and
your company…”.
Many obey; others lose their lives for refusing to give in to the racket.
During the summer of 2004 hundreds of
mysterious stickers appeared in the centre of Palermo on which was written: AN
ENTIRE POPULATION THAT PAYS THE RACKET FEE IS A POPULATION WITHOUT DIGNITY.
It was the birth of the ‘Addiopizzo’ Committee… Link: > http://www.addiopizzo.org
Theatre Emma Dante
If anyone has talked to you about Sicily, they have told you that there is a water shortage, that family is the most important thing, that women are victims of their fathers, brothers and their husbands and that the Mafia does not exist even though it is everywhere. They have told you the truth, but they have not told it quite as she does, Emma Dante, a thespian who from a workshop in one of Palermo’s former prisons has given life back to Italian theatre. Emma Dante sets out to recount her own city, Palermo and its surroundings by liberating the drama from its congenital folklore. Sicily’s immobility and in particular Palermo’s, is the main point of action in M’Palermu. This show is a declaration of poetry that has gained her national fame around which her company ‘SudCostaOccidentale’ was to be formed. To follow there would be the violent ‘Carnezzeria’ , the ongoing death of ‘Vita Mia’ and the Mafioso revolution of ‘Cani di Bancata’, which would go on to tour Europe and the world, spreading the idea that telling the truth is really about revealing the act of faking. Emma Dante’s belief is that theatre is a game, a disguise, a time to focus on reality. Theatre is mostly composed of bodies that move in scene, giving into the need to gesticulate. “Any one of your mistakes is worth more than any justice”, says the director to her actors, to teach them that the body often knows instinctively that which the mind wants. Her stage rules are wisely befitting for daily living: “Listen and denounce your own needs in order to connect yourself to the needs of others”, “Do the right thing at the wrong time or the wrong thing at the right time. Be creative.” Seeing one of Emma Dante’s shows is highly recommended for those who want to discover the insides of Sicily and consequently to those who have a strong enough stomach for the voyage! Now she's got a new space (http://www.emmadante.it/lavicaria.html)!!! documents: > Lars Riing - Uppskruvat som i en Fellinifilm - Svenska DagBladet 2004
Link We suggest: Music
Gianni Gebbia - Sperimentale / Jazz Akkura - Folk rock / Jazz /
Alternativo Mario Crispi - Ambiente /
Elettronica dal vivo / Downtempo Mario Incudine - Folk / Roots Music
/ Acustico Massimo Laguardia - folk/acustico FOLKALAB - Elettroacustica / Sperimentale / Corale http://www.myspace.com/folkalab
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Sicilian G.astronomy Effectively, one cannot speak of gastronomy, the art of regulating the stomach, when making reference to Sicily. We are in ecstatic contemplation of the heavens, three star Michelin perhaps and of other glittering stars, which leads us to believe it is more correct to talk about Sicilian astronomy, putting aside the G spot or the G. for an art capable of bringing into being the most emotional dishes that mankind has ever produced, consumed and digested. The history of Sicilian gastronomy is a fairytale which has its beginning with the classic “Once upon a time”. Once upon a time there were the Greeks, whom, around about 734 BC, disembarked onto Sicilian ionic shores bringing with them olive trees, spelt and the art of making wine. Their knowledge and these ingredients soon mixed in with the local cooking, developed by the ancient inhabitants of the Island: Siculi, Sicani and Elimi. Spelt began to be used not only in bread but also in course noodles in order to maintain flavour and for an invention not to be undermined: Short pastry. In the IV century BC, Archestrato di Gela in his “Fragments of gastronomy” claims to have visited every land and sea, but to have found ‘good taste’ in Sicily. The secret of Sicily’s cooking success from the IV century BC until today still remains the same: natural cooking, pure and authentic without sophistication and which only avails of oil, salt and if necessary vinegar and aromatic herbs. That which has changed over the centuries is the variety of ingredients and the stratification of the culture of foodstuffs. After the Greeks, in fact, it would be the Arabs turn, when in the year 827 they were to disembark at Marsala, introducing us to the variable epicentre of Sicilian cooking: sugar cane, rice, jasmine, cotton, aniseed, sesame and the drugs: cinnamon and saffron. The so-called Muslims of Africa were agile pastry makers and were to hand on the skill of making many sweets such as those which are still world famous today: cassata and sorbets. To the Arabian pastry maker we owe: Cubbaita (Qubbayt) an extremely sweet nougat made from honey, sesame seeds and almonds; Nucatuli, from the Arab Word “Nagal” (dried fruit, confectionary, sweet dry); the Cupita or Copata: very hard nougat confectioned in large cloths with a base of hazelnuts, egg whites, sugar, honey and starch. Lovers of essence, the Arabs created sweets perfumed with fruit, cinnamon and even with floral odours such as jasmine which is still used today to flavour ice-cream in Trapani known by its Arabic Name “Scursunera”. They would go on to invent jellies made from melon, must, cinnamon, jasmine and retorts and stills for distilling grappa liquor which out of respect for the Koran, they would only use to disinfect wounds and that we changed into rosoli. To these tasteful ‘invaders’ we owe other typical Sicilian dishes such as Panelle, dried chickpeas and dried salted pumpkin flowers not to mention ‘pane con la milza’ – bread with cow spleen, of which today Palermitans still have a weakness for. You are also partially responsible for Sicily’s culinary destiny, that’s to say the Arabs were to be defeated by the Normans of Roger II of Altavilla in the battle of Cerami in 1063. A Scandinavian population of good tempered sailors and warriors, besides the construction of magnificent cathedrals they were to bring: rotating spits, smoked herring and dried cod (Piscistaccu and Baccalà). Fredrick II’s love for hunting and game gave birth to delicatessen specialties in Sicily. At this stage the paradigm of Sicilian gastronomy was well written, it lacked only that touch of class which couldn’t come but from France, thanks to the reputation of ‘il Falsumagru’, who was first known as Rollò, from the French, Roullè, who filled the common people up with omelettes and vegetables and the nobles with fine selected meats. The only thing missing was a touch of the Spaniards flowering baroque style, which however, was eventually to arrive. Thanks to this culture we recognise the evolution of the Arabian Cassata from the moment in which the new dominators brought in an important base ingredient: Sponge cake; and once more we must thank our Iberian cousins for introducing sweet and sour pumpkin and other various “mpanate”. Undoubtedly, considering the dishes that are cooked and eaten nowadays, it is our duty to talk about Sicilian gastronomy, but not from the point of view of the historical evolution of our dishes, it would be more correct to talk of the history of wars and dominations as it is well-known - in cooking and in war, all is permitted! > back
Practical info & useful links
Driving & Parking While driving, you should pay attention to thousands of motorbikes and car choosing their own favourite lane (anarchically). It’s not Bangkok but it gets close, sometimes… Parking is quite difficult (not impossible) in the centre.
You’ll find blue-lined parking spaces (from € 0,75 to €
1,50 an hour). Tobacconists’ and bars (sometimes also unofficial parking
‘helpers’) sell the parking tickets you will need (scheda parcheggio). Scratch
out the date and time and leave the tickets on your dashboard.
Do not try Saturday afternoon! Everyone does it! Car parks in the city center If you want to walk around the city center, you can park in Piazzale Ungheria, just off Via Ruggero Settimo, the main street between Piazza Castelnuovo and Piazza Verdi. Price is €1.50 per hour to be paid at the Bar Mazzara (just before you leave) showing the ticket from the machine on entering. It's quite busy in the morning from about 8.30am to 11.00am and in the afternoon from about 4.00pm to 5.30pm. Usually, not so many problems at Lunchtime.
Institutional websites >
Palermo tourist office
> Teatro
Massimo
Monuments, Churchs and Museums > La
Cattedrale di Palermo
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palermo http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sicily http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palermo
Visit Palermo likes these blogs/websites about holidays and tourism in Palermo and Sicily:
Tururi.org (Tour operator for responsible and sustainable tourism)
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